I decide to drive into Palermo for breakfast. There’s not much traffic yet, and the white Alfa Romeo I’ve hired drives so smoothly it seems to skim, not touch the tarmac. I turn up the volume on the soundtrack to Big Night, and begin to scroll through the places I could go and eat — a wonderful excuse to re-live gastronomic memories. Rosciglione? This is a famous cannolo bakery in the heart of the Ballarò market. They export cannoli, the crisp, bubbly deep-fried sweet tubes of wafer that are Sicily’s most famous dessert all over the world, and if you go to the bakery in the morning, they will fill a cannolo with sweet chilled ricotta cream, brushed with ground pistacchios, for you to eat standing at the counter. Yum.